29/06/2015
We are happy for your visit Tokpa Korlo - thanks for capturing Shamar Rinpoche's vision and sharing the construction progress!
Nestled at the base of the mountains and jungle in the north east corner of the Kathmandu valley lies Shar Minub. This was Shamar Rinpoche’s dream - this was to be so much more than just another structure amongst many. It was to serve as a place of higher learning, of study and practice, an education center for language and culture, buddhist history, and a place for discussion and debate for not only Dharma and spiritual topics but ecology and geopolitics. It was a huge dream, a dream that would span decades of Rinpoche’s life in the delicate and articulate planning and design of an institute to house it all, and one that would also be a place of welcome for monastic and lay, local and foreigners alike. A place for ancient texts to be translated and a world class library built around the idea that all cultures and beliefs - scholars of all traditions could come together to learn from each other, all at the foot of the jungle lined mountains of the Queens Forest in Raniban. The spot is amazing, literally peering out over the entire valley below, from the rooftop the view is endless as the sky meets the horizon in a way I have yet to see anywhere else in Nepal, the clouds brilliantly moving across the sky in intense and beautiful colors. On this very rooftop just one year ago the cremation of Rinpoche was carried out, rather fittingly in his desired place, following his last request to be laid to rest here.
For the ceremonies of last summer the whole space was dressed up and prepared beautifully, colored cloth and brocade were everywhere and the place was alive with people and color. The construction of Shar Minub was at the time, and still is, incomplete, but great care was taken to prepare the entire surroundings for the event. A great many structures have been already built, with red brick and copper roofing the place is quite beautiful, and a very unique and special look compared to all that surrounds it. After the ceremonies work began again, and for this all the color, cloth and preparations were then taken down, bringing the raw and oftentimes open walls and unfinished work into view again. Then on April 25th of this year Nepal was rocked by an enormous earthquake and we thought that all had been lost. After spending a good deal of time here these past weeks, and talking with Willie the amazingly energetic and wonderful architect of the entire project, I have been happily informed that we were in fact really lucky, and the damage to the institute is really minor compared to what could have been. Some areas had to be torn done and restarted, there are a few minor surface cracks but in general the project is still chugging along, and very little back-stepping has ensued from the otherwise catastrophic aftermath of the earthquake just weeks ago. The grounds even housed a very large Parinirvana ceremony a few weeks ago for Shamar Rinpoche - over 1500 monks made it even larger in attendance than the events in KIBI, showing that this amazing place is already capable of housing and supporting large Dharma events regardless of its unfinished state. The gompa of last summer is now empty, a strikingly large room with great pillars and soft light drifting in through the big windows, I almost don’t recognize it in its current state. The smaller lower gompa is now being fully renovated, it too now is missing the colored cloth and brocade, but you can still feel the excitement of what is to come standing in the empty space that will soon be once again full of color and people.
Architecturally this place is staggering - it is truly beautiful both in design and layout, with a hint of modern style coupled with the traditional Tibetan monastery decor and the red brick makes it really unique. It’s location makes for a really serene and calm energy, the sounds of the jungle and forest near by, the ornate walls of brick and accents of gold and red copper, the different terraces looking out into the courtyards, when it is finished it's going to be absolutely incredible. The lines and design are quite amazing, I pass the morning wandering through the halls, terraces, hallways and courtyards examining all the angles and beams, columns and ceiling patterns, all the lines are so perfectly placed, with so many small details to explore. Im not much of an architectural guy; usually buildings don’t interest me very much but this place is really beautiful, even with the final details or even the floor not yet finished, exposed wiring or cement foundations, it feels regal and dignified. There is an air of class and warmth, surrounded by red brick and cement it still feels like a royal palace that has yet to receive its sovereign residents. I can imagine as I walk though what the final effect will be - and it's really exciting. In some ways it actually feels near complete, so much detail is already there, most of the main buildings are already up, they were installing the second copper rooftop just a few days ago, visible from afar it is a mammoth undertaking that is just beginning its approach towards completion.
Rinpoche’s dream for this place was huge. Not only for what will be housed inside, what the space will allow for in terms of study and the bringing of all and everyone from around the world - it is a place of no limits and worldly culture. Though it may be a Buddhist institute at heart it has the capability of being so much more - a center for world debate and progressive thinking, just like Rinpoche. A place where artful symmetry and carefully planned lines meet the sky, creating a special atmosphere of calm and creativity, just like Rinpoche. You can feel that he put all his heart into this place, every detail and every nook and cranny have the essence of his ideas and his wisdom. The rooftop where his cremation stupa stood, still looking out from the highest point in all directions, taking on all comers with quiet dignity. I take the time to do some kora and I feel Rinpoche walking alongside me. It was just here that he left us, right here gazing out onto the valley below. What an incredible spot, where the sky just opens up on you, washing away all that keeps us heavy in this world - even as I think of him and my heart seems to grow weak with sadness I can take great comfort in knowing that I am standing at the highest point of Rinpoche’s greatest wish and that it is continuing to come true. His gift to us all is this magnificent place, his royal palace of knowledge, and we can all rejoice in knowing that this gift is almost ready to be opened, unwrapped like a present and enjoyed for lifetimes to come. Shar Minub, with its perfect lines of symmetry and view in all directions, with its steady lines of red brick and glowing copper, is a testament to the great mind and heart of Rinpoche. Standing on its rooftop, by the side of what remains of his cremation stupa, where the fires burnt brightly and for almost endless time I am now deeply centered in his deepest wish and greatest hopes for us. I know that he left us the greatest gift he could have possibly given - a gift that will bring us all closer together in the great and timeless pursuit of knowledge, wisdom and practice. Only a man like he could have ever dreamed this up, and we can rejoice that his dream is being fulfilled.
