08/06/2026
A sermon for July 25th at St. James Church, Jemseg, NB
The Feast of St. James
Have a look, if you will, at the grave, mysterious figure held within the east window. It is myself, St. James, and I would like to say a few words.
I have been dead a long, long time, and should be long forgotten. But I am famous. My bones – if you are interested in bones – are revered by the church as holy relics, powerful, charged with the glory of God. They now rest inside a silver box, which is kept on display in the crypt, deep beneath the high altar of the Cathedral that bears my name, in the city that also bears my name, in northern Spain. Santiago.
How many millions have visited my bones over the last thousand years? Countless. You might as well try to number the steps you take as you walk through life, or count the stars that light the sky while you sleep. Yet I tell you plain that my bones have never held the meaning of the journey. So long as we human beings remain creatures of earth, bound by gravity and sin, yet always dreaming of escape, the journey itself must always be the purpose of the journey.
We do what we are. We human beings are restless creatures. God has created us to seek, to learn, to suffer insufficiency, to find somewhere beyond this earth our ultimate home. We were made to move, and so we do. If my bones – kept in a silver box beneath the high altar of my cathedral - should serve as pretext for the necessary journey, then I am content. Also, a little amused.
For a thousand years I have watched the pilgrims journeying to me. At first it was just the locals, peasants and craftsmen and housewives. They came bearing their superstitions and prayers, for they had heard the story: my bones, the bones of Saint James, the third disciple of Jesus, had been found buried in a nearby field. A shrine was built to house my bones, and a story built to be worthy of the shrine. There was talk of angels and voices and strange lights in the sky. They called the place “Campus Stellae, the Field of Stars.”
And yes, the miracles happened: the healings and the answered prayers. And yes, I played my part in them, for heaven is not so far from earth, and I have some influence. But the stories grew with each new telling, beyond my control, and spread beyond the mountains. Pilgrims came from ever further away and in greater numbers, speaking strange languages. The passing of their feet, millions and millions of feet, coming and going, wore a groove into the earth. The groove became a path, and then a trail, and finally a road: the French Road: the Camino.
In time my shrine was replaced by a modest stone church, not unlike this one in Jemseg, and that was the home I loved best, a place of quiet shadows and stone arches, round and earthbound. I liked it there, but it proved too small. Since then my home has been rebuilt and expanded many times, to accommodate the growing crowds and the changing ideas of what a holy place ought to look like. And now it seems, for most people, I have become the building. I am a cathedral, a tourist destination. I am Romanesque and Gothic and Baroque, a story held in stone. I have been dead a long, long time, and should be long forgotten. But the pilgrims keep coming. I am, it seems, still needed.
In EngIish-speaking countries I am known as James. In France, I am Jacque. In Mexico, Diego. In Spain, the land that adopted me, I am Iago: Saint Iago. But I began my life as Jakov, and I was a fisherman on the Sea of Galilee. It happened this way. My brother and I were sitting in our boat, late one afternoon, drifting off-shore. It had been a long day. We had caught our fish and cleaned them, and now we were mending the nets, when we noticed a man walking towards us: Jesus, the rabbi from Nazareth. We had heard the stories about him, which we did not believe. And now we saw him standing knee-deep in the water between us and the shore. “Come,” he said. “Follow me.” Then he turned and walked away.
I cannot explain what happened next. Without a word my brother and I stepped out of the boat into the water. We pulled it on shore and folded our nets on top of the fish, knowing that Zebedee, our father, would take care of them. Then we started to walk, to follow him.
That’s how it began, with a short walk up the beach, leading we knew not where. For three years we followed him: my fisherman’s hands growing soft, my feet growing hard. For three years we walked with Jesus through the hills of Galilee, collecting alms, distributing food, watching and learning. Occasionally my brother and I would return home, to help our father with the fishing. But we knew, as he knew, that we had found a new home, a new life.
I often think that, before I met Jesus, I had never truly noticed the world.
But Jesus gave me new eyes. “What is the Kingdom of Heaven?” he would ask. Then, with a laugh, he would point at a bird, or a flower, or a tree; and I would truly see them, as if for the first time. I was like the man who had been born blind, whose eyes Jesus opened. The Kingdom of God, I learned, was all around me, and always had been. There were parables everywhere: a sower and his seed, a man building a house, a woman and her lost coin, a shepherd calling his lost sheep. Even my own life, Jesus said, was a parable. “You have been fishing for fish,” he said. “But now you will start fishing for people.”
I will not tell you everything that Jesus said or did for those three years. If you are curious, I commend to you the work of my colleagues: Matthew, Mark, Luke and John. But I was with him in the beginning. I followed Jesus to the top of a mountain and saw him transfigured by the glory of God. I knelt by the bed of a young girl, the daughter of Jairus, and watched Jesus restore her life. I followed him into the Garden of Gethsemane. I saw him arrested, tortured, and crucified.
I was in the upper room two days later when the women burst in, shouting that they had seen him alive. I was there the same evening when Jesus himself came among us from the dead, bearing his scars, yet more fully alive than any human being has ever been.
Forty days later he appeared for the last time, telling us to go to the ends of the earth, to proclaim all that he had taught. And so we went, all of us. Myself, I went west, as far as I could. I followed the setting sun to the end of the world, to the place you now call Spain: Hispania, Galicia, Finisterre.
I was not a successful evangelist. I admit it freely. It is possible that I converted no-one to faith in Jesus. But though I was not always believed, I was loved, and I learned to love the people of Spain in return. In this, the gospel was fulfilled. Finally, after many years, at the end of my strength, I returned to Galilee, and discovered that faith in Jesus had grown, becoming both popular and dangerous. As always, the poor understood Him best, while the powerful were quick to condemn. I myself was condemned for preaching how, in Christ, God’s love is offered to all people, in all times, in all places. For this crime I was beheaded at the command of King Herod. The sword fell. My earthly life ended, my heavenly life began.
In Jesus I found peace, but not idleness. Even in death my body remained in motion. My body was interred for a year, and then my bones were laid in a box, and the box loaded onto a small boat, not unlike those I used to sail on the Sea of Galilee. Two of my friends piloted the boat west, across the Mediterranean and beyond Gibraltar. Without benefit of sails or oars, the Spirit carried us over the waters, until we reached the port of Padron. From there my bones were carried inland, and buried in the soil of my beloved Spain. And I slept for 700 years.
This is my story. Do you find it hard to believe? Perhaps you do not like miracles? But I tell you plain: all of life is a miracle. Your life, my life, the life of Jesus; the earth, the moon, and the stars beyond: it is all dust, but dust sustained by the breath of God. I say it again: all of life is a miracle, if we could only see it.
After seven centuries my bones were discovered, and a shrine built to my honour, as I have already told you. Then a church was built to replace the shrine, and finally a great cathedral, which still stands, and which you are welcome to visit. Today there are perhaps 5000 churches, in a hundred countries, named after me - I have lost count. But this church, here in Jemseg, is one of my favourites: solid, quiet, strong with prayer. And it rests comfortably in this place. The walls are built of sandstone gathered from the shore of nearby Dykeman Lake. All the wood - the beams, floors, pews and panelling - were milled from trees cut nearby. Local, too, were the men and women who transformed these elements into this House of God. And what has been my contribution? I continue to offer something of my spirit, and of course my name, St. James.
The stained glass windows are lovely, but the best of them – I say it with all humility – is mine, the window from which I am now speaking. Have a look at me if you like. I have nothing to hide. You can tell at a glance that I am a traveller, a pilgrim, footsore, but strong. I wear a red cloak, red for the blood of the martyrs. In my right hand I hold a staff, to keep my balance on rocky trails, and to fend off the angry dogs of Spain; and from the top there hangs a hollow gourd, my water bottle. I wear a broad-brimmed hat, protection against the sun and rain, and upon its brim is a scallop shell, taken from the sea at Finisterre: the badge of pilgrimage in every age and in every land. And about my head still shine the stars that led to the discovery of my bones on that strange night 1300 years ago.
There are two inaccuracies in the window that I must point out. First, my left hand holds a Bible. This, I’m afraid, is pure invention. I am, you remember, a 1st century Galilean peasant. No one in my family has ever learned to read or write. Second, my feet are bare. Truly, I wish the artist had given me sandals. As every pilgrim knows, it is essential that you care for your feet.
Still, it is a good likeness. My face is sun-burned. I need a shave and a haircut - but you know how hard it is to stay well-groomed when you are on the road. And I am, I think, neither smiling nor frowning. I am tired, clearly, from the many miles that lay behind me, and the thought of the miles that lay ahead. But I am content – even, perhaps, resolute. They have a word for this in Spanish. “Ultreya,” they say.” It means “Keep going.” And so I do. And as I go, I keep this thought in mind: that by travelling faithfully, we have, in a sense, already arrived.
You are welcome to visit this Church of St. James any time you want. The door is unlocked - indeed, you might notice that the lock is broken. The key was lost many years ago, and will not be replaced. Only one thing I ask: when you come to this place, you do not look at me; but look through me, for I am a window. I bear only the light that Christ is pleased to shine through me. I have no virtues of my own, only those that He still inspires and sustains. I am no one’s destination, but like you, I am a pilgrim. Still, if you would seek Christ and His Kingdom, then perhaps you and I might walk together for a while.